buz

The MSLR in OO scale

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Hi Dave

Well that is a good start, that it does actually sort of look like somewhere, that will give the necessary air of authenticity

I ran the line on to the pier as it made sense to me

And over the years while others where working on the principle too many coal wagons is just not enough,

I was doing the same with fish vans so it gives an on line source of freight traffic that is not going to cost me anything

in new wagons as I already have them.

Hopefully enough of the old Triang insulfish vans as I think they would be far more suitable than the more modern blue spot ones...

The extension has to be done on the real cheap skate plan utilising as much as possible product and materials I already have

The budget for this bit really is $0.00 I won't meet that target, but I recon I can get very very very close to the no expenditure target

Close enough to get it done.

regards John

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Hi Dave

Well that is a good start, that it does actually sort of look like somewhere, that will give the necessary air of authenticity

I ran the line on to the pier as it made sense to me

And over the years while others where working on the principle too many coal wagons is just not enough,

I was doing the same with fish vans so it gives an on line source of freight traffic that is not going to cost me anything

in new wagons as I already have them.

Hopefully enough of the old Triang insulfish vans as I think they would be far more suitable than the more modern blue spot ones...

The extension has to be done on the real cheap skate plan utilising as much as possible product and materials I already have

The budget for this bit really is $0.00 I won't meet that target, but I recon I can get very very very close to the no expenditure target

Close enough to get it done.

regards John

John, it appears you don't listen to me in regards to making H2o in modelling form.

An easy way is to use liquid silicone and add a hardener over the top, and I believe all good craft shops stock the stuff.

One must paint dark to medium blue to get the required depth, add some brown on the edges and pour away.

It will take awhile to dry in hot or cold climates and you can shape it with ripples and waves 

Cheers,

Stretch 

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Hi Stretch

What water its at least 87% mud 1%water the other twelve is vegetation on the only nearly solid ground and lots of reeds.and the tide is out 

Any water is that shallow it can be applied with a paint brush out of the Artists varnish I already have  or its that murky flesh wash then a bush load or two of varnish it needs to look wet not drowned

The key point is there is no budget for this If I don't have it  I can't use it, or it has to wait until I am back at work and funds become available again

not a short term prospect at the moment.

No blues its greys browns or black mud and whatever I have for the vegetation.

I seem to remember that conversation and the load of turp's to thin the silicon down not really suitable for in the house, "hey man wow man" he said as he floats around the house:D

regards John

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Hi Stretch

What water its at least 87% mud 1%water the other twelve is vegetation on the only nearly solid ground and lots of reeds.and the tide is out 

Any water is that shallow it can be applied with a paint brush out of the Artists varnish I already have  or its that murky flesh wash then a bush load or two of varnish it needs to look wet not drowned

The key point is there is no budget for this If I don't have it  I can't use it, or it has to wait until I am back at work and funds become available again

not a short term prospect at the moment.

No blues its greys browns or black mud and whatever I have for the vegetation.

I seem to remember that conversation and the load of turp's to thin the silicon down not really suitable for in the house, "hey man wow man" he said as he floats around the house:D

regards John

There are lots of different methods to produce water, including perspex sheet and model around the edges, modelling waters are usually very effective, but can be costly, for that reason I try to use varnish (no yacht varnish just the cheap stuff from pound land) to ty and keep the cost down. There are too many pictures here. I will leave them here fore to see then move them and link them to my own thread so they are not sat here filling up your thread. (removed as said so as to not fill up your thread) Hope they help.I have other water pictures LOL.

i use cheap varnish for water, i have tried several modelling water and like them, but for later water even with ripples i sit prefer varnish. some of my work to show effects Horizontal and ripples = varnish vertical = various bought 'waters' . I have seen lovely work by many using all sorts, but I stick to varnish for horizontal as so cheap by comparison.But you need ventilation, and have to build up layers, although some of the modelling waters can only be laid in thin layers too.

0005, flat, layered, scenic greenery and blast on edges in layer

4778, similar

4981, waterfall two or three modelling waters with different stiffness, varnish on the flat

4785, blue brown paint varnish

7942, waterfall with natural sunlight behind

7174, varnish, two brands one clear and one golden 

9129. varnish, for flat lay thin and allow to dry completely, for ripples allow one to art dry then add another

7808, the clowns bucket was empty i added a modelling car then used modelling water

9133, varnish rippled

0714, varnish flat

1557, varnish flat, then some modelling water for the waves, i could have modelled painted added less modelling water - so cheaper

0415, flat, painted base first added varnish and used thin pains between varnish

1624 Goathland and the weir I am building at the back.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Jaz
removed a number of pictures as previously stated i would do, as they were for temporary ref and not part of the owners thread, they can still be sourced on my own thread where they are appropriate

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John,

Just another useless bit of info, don't ever use Woodland scenic's real water as it never drys thoroughly through to the bottom and it remains soft, hence why we are not using it on N Toppia, and it's rather expensive.

However, when I see you next in Perth I will give you some of the liquid we are using on the port, so you can use it on your layout mate, and if your going to place old boats etc on or near water make sure that half is in the water and the other half is out, like laying on the mud bank

There are lots of different methods to produce water, including perspex sheet and model around the edges, modelling waters are usually very effective, but can be costly, for that reason I try to use varnish (no yacht varnish just the cheap stuff from pound land) to ty and keep the cost down. There are too many pictures here. I will leave them here fore to see then move them and link them to my own thread so they are not sat here filling up your thread. Hope they help.I have other water pictures LOL.

i use cheap varnish for water, i have tried several modelling water and like them, but for later water even with ripples i sit prefer varnish. some of my work to show effects Horizontal and ripples = varnish vertical = various bought 'waters' . I have seen lovely work by many using all sorts, but I stick to varnish for horizontal as so cheap by comparison.But you need ventilation, and have to build up layers, although some of the modelling waters can only be laid in thin layers too.

0005, flat, layered, scenic greenery and blast on edges in layer

4778, similar

4981, waterfall two or three modelling waters with different stiffness, varnish on the flat

4785, blue brown paint varnish

7942, waterfall with natural sunlight behind

7174, varnish, two brands one clear and one golden 

9129. varnish, for flat lay thin and allow to dry completely, for ripples allow one to art dry then add another

7808, the clowns bucket was empty i added a modelling car then used modelling water

9133, varnish rippled

0714, varnish flat

1557, varnish flat, then some modelling water for the waves, i could have modelled painted added less modelling water - so cheaper

0415, flat, painted base first added varnish and used thin pains between varnish

1624 Goathland and the weir I am building at the back.

IMG_0005.jpg

arboretumvalleym4778waterfeature.jpg

arboretumvalleym4981rocks.jpg

arboretumvalleym4785waterfeature.jpg

IMG_7942.jpg

IMG_7174.jpg

IMG_9129.jpg

IMG_7808.jpg

IMG_9133.jpg

IMG_0714.jpg

IMG_1557.jpg

IMG_0415.jpg

IMG_1624.jpg

Hi Stretch

What water its at least 87% mud 1%water the other twelve is vegetation on the only nearly solid ground and lots of reeds.and the tide is out 

Any water is that shallow it can be applied with a paint brush out of the Artists varnish I already have  or its that murky flesh wash then a bush load or two of varnish it needs to look wet not drowned

The key point is there is no budget for this If I don't have it  I can't use it, or it has to wait until I am back at work and funds become available again

not a short term prospect at the moment.

No blues its greys browns or black mud and whatever I have for the vegetation.

I seem to remember that conversation and the load of turp's to thin the silicon down not really suitable for in the house, "hey man wow man" he said as he floats around the house:D

regards John

John,

Just another useless bit of info, don't ever use Woodland scenic's real water as it never drys thoroughly through to the bottom and it remains soft, hence why we are not using it on N Toppia, and it's rather expensive.

However, when I see you next in Perth I will give you some of the liquid we are using on the port, so you can use it on your layout mate, and if your going to place old boats etc on or near water make sure that half is in the water and the other half is out, like laying on the mud bank

John, it appears you don't listen to me in regards to making H2o in modelling form.

An easy way is to use liquid silicone and add a hardener over the top, and I believe all good craft shops stock the stuff.

One must paint dark to medium blue to get the required depth, add some brown on the edges and pour away.

It will take awhile to dry in hot or cold climates and you can shape it with ripples and waves 

Cheers,

Stretch 

John,

Just another useless bit of info, don't ever use Woodland scenic's real water as it never drys thoroughly through to the bottom and it remains soft, hence why we are not using it on N Toppia, and it's rather expensive.

However, when I see you next in Perth I will give you some of the liquid we are using on the port, so you can use it on your layout mate, and if your going to place old boats etc on or near water make sure that half is in the water and the other half is out, like laying on the mud bank

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Hi all

Well Hornby R9821 way side halt and R9810 corrugated iron workshop where suggested a possible buildings for the extension but given the budget restraint

and box loads of stuff I already have. I don't think it will happen.

But any one contemplating a light railway should give them a serious look more so the halt building if contemplating doing Brockford or something similar

regards John

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John,

Just another useless bit of info, don't ever use Woodland scenic's real water as it never drys thoroughly through to the bottom and it remains soft, hence why we are not using it on N Toppia, and it's rather expensive.

However, when I see you next in Perth I will give you some of the liquid we are using on the port, so you can use it on your layout mate, and if your going to place old boats etc on or near water make sure that half is in the water and the other half is out, like laying on the mud bank

Hi stretch

Don't know about small boat unless you started on that small OO cabin cruiser that could be moored and lie on its hull waiting for the tide to come in.

But if you have the time on your hands, corn flakes box and model aeroplane dope on hand a whale boat or other large row boat rotten skeleton to bury in the ooze would be handy

Would look good with a sea gull or salt marsh bird perched on it :D

regards John

 

Edited by buz

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Hi all well

After and extended absence I am back a combination of eye trouble now fixed

Followed by computer problems a problem for a button pusher like me.

So thanks to our resident computor guru Jack I am back.

I have decided to pack away the black pannier tank and replace it with a brown one I bought quite a while ago at a knock down price OK so the name on the side is wrong but I like it:D

DSC00324 (1).JPG

regards John

 

 

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Hi Dave

Thanks

That will teach you the perils of doing such a good job on the layout :D but good to hear things are going well for the tram layout.

But I am not looking forward to the next job on the MSLR which is to give the layout a bit of a clean before work can start again always the risk of breaking something.

Starting work with repairs to a couple of signs that have been broken one will be easy the other may require a sideways step to get it fixed or just replace it with another.

regards John

 

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On 29/08/2016 at 8:40 AM, class66 said:

More nice modelling John...

Wish I could claim it but it is a Bachmann Railway Children locomotive,

from the Railway Children train pack managed to pick up loco and three coaches cheap would have got station but it was too heavy

regards John

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So your MSLR needs a good clean? Rather than spend hours with feather dusters and fluffy brushes why not (and I know its expensive, but its fun to watch) invest in a Dapol Hoover Car, See  http://www.hattons.co.uk/24836/Dapol_B800_Non_motorised_OO_Track_Cleaner_with_motorised_cleaning_heads_vacuum_in_blue/StockDetail.aspx

Electra Rail Graphics http://www.electrarailwaygraphics.co.uk/ do a variety of full body vinyls including Network Rail, BR Research, Railtrack, BR Green, BR Civil Engineers Red, etc.

The Railway Children set is increasingly rare, so flogging it might pay handsomely towards the Hoover Car!

Cheers,

Dave

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On 30/08/2016 at 7:52 PM, piermaster said:

So your MSLR needs a good clean? Rather than spend hours with feather dusters and fluffy brushes why not (and I know its expensive, but its fun to watch) invest in a Dapol Hoover Car, See  http://www.hattons.co.uk/24836/Dapol_B800_Non_motorised_OO_Track_Cleaner_with_motorised_cleaning_heads_vacuum_in_blue/StockDetail.aspx

Electra Rail Graphics http://www.electrarailwaygraphics.co.uk/ do a variety of full body vinyls including Network Rail, BR Research, Railtrack, BR Green, BR Civil Engineers Red, etc.

The Railway Children set is increasingly rare, so flogging it might pay handsomely towards the Hoover Car!

Cheers,

Dave

2

Hi Dave

You are the second person who has suggested I get one of those I think I will have to look into it properly.

The scenic areas and to be scenic areas are going to have to be done with a soft brush and hoover with a stocking over the hose

But does it come in engineer's black:D

Certainly looks interesting as a routine maintenance coach I might have to use the old Triang and meths cleaners before that one would work properly.

regards John

 

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On 02/09/2016 at 6:10 PM, Chris said:

It's good to see you back, John. Regarding the Railway Children Pannier, can it not run on the 'it's my railway and I'll run what I like' basis? That philosophy is going to work on mine for sure! :-)

 
 
 

I think that's covered by the I like it bit:D

regards John

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