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About Rob_B2805

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  • Birthday 05/28/1958

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    Walking, model making,photography

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  1. Not sure if this is the place or if anyone is interested but: Hornby Announces New CEO, Chairman of Oxford Diecast Lyndon Davies. Simon Kohler is also to Hornby return as an operational consultant. See the original Hornby Press Release by clicking on the following link - Rob
  2. Rob_B2805

    Y6 Build

    Just spent a pleasant rainy afternoon trial fitting sprung coupling hooks into the buffer beams, embossing rivets and soldering the steps and back boxes onto the rear of the side skirts. Also had a bit of a mess about to work out where the decoder stay-alive and wiring should go (currently the stay-alive is inside the boiler). The kit came with a Tenshodo SPUD as a power unit so I have attached my “spud runner” (a custom weight box to improve traction and pickup) and am running it in prior to disassembly for DCC conversion. Currently it all seems to be coming along nicely.
  3. Rob_B2805

    Y6 Build

    Coupling question sorted, the answer is screw link.
  4. Rob_B2805

    Y6 Build

    Hi I'm currently having a go at building a white metal and brass LNER Y6 kit (D & S Models) I picked up a few weeks ago, my question is about couplings? Screw-link or Instanter? And just in case anyone is interested, this is my progress so far, I would like to add the couplings and buffer shanks at this point before assembling (soldering) the side-skirts to the cow catchers. Any help on this would be appreciated. Rob
  5. Thanks for the encouragement
  6. Hi Ill health as kept me a way from modelling and posting for a while, so before I get back to sorting my scrach bullt Dapol Railbus chassis I decided to have a go at a Kinightwing Kit. I know it's supposed to be a RK20B, but haveing seen these in Germany it's like no Jung I have ever come across. So I decided to kitbash to see if I could get somewhere near without too much effort. Still a bit of filling, trimming and sanding to do, but pleased with the result so far. Comments and suggestions appreciated. (For some reason the image is showing twice and I can't work out how to fix it, sorry.) Rob
  7. Sorry to have bothered you all, as soon as I posted the request I found the answer. I had seen it before but it didn't look right. Thanks anyway. Rob
  8. Hi Can any one help out with how to wire a bi-polar led do a DCC Decoder to provide forward/reverse lighting. By bi-polar I mean two led's in a single case wired in reverse to each other. Only two legs, apply a voltage on way it's white, reverse the voltage it's red. Due to space issues I can't go common anode or common cathode as I can barely manage to disguise two wires let alone three. Any help appreciated.
  9. Rob_B2805


    Stephen/Jeff Thanks both, I have seen S&W in use and like the fact that they are so discreet and I had already discarded the idea of wires across the buffers because as you say that looks c**p and defeats the object, but thanks for the heads up all the same. I have decided to order a trial pack of S&W from ModelSignals as well as some mounting plates and an electromagnetic decoupler,, as for setting up I am sure I can knock up some sort of alignment jig if I decide these are the way to go. I'll let you know how I get on. Rob
  10. Rob_B2805


    Currently I am starting effectively from scratch after an absence from railway modelling of roughly forty years. I am building up my rolling stock and motive power by kit building or rescuing stuff (I like the build/rebuild part). Now comes the time to sort out couplings, NMRA pockets are nice if you have recent RTR rolling stock, but I don’t; and although I can buy NMRA compliant couplings I can’t find pockets to fit them into! So I am thinking of going Spratt & Winkle, comments please.
  11. Sean Thanks for the comment, and the idea for fixing the warped floor pan. Work has ground to a halt over the last couple of weeks due to life in general getting in the way. With luck I may be able to get some more time on the project this weekend. Currently I am trying to work out how to pick up power from all four wheels as there is little space especially around the driven wheelset, I am also thinking od fitting a DCC decoder if I can. Rob
  12. Decided to go with Newtom meters initially, but like the gradual weighting idea as well. It's just that I have an idea in my head of what I want a loco to do, so when I am building/ rebuilding I would find it usefull to see how effective my weighting/balasting is before I finish the build.
  13. Philip, Thanks for the info, I think I may just go with the clean them up and give them a servicing option. I had a walk round yesterday and said thank you and assured them I would look after them and give them a run when ever I could. She asked me what I was going to do with the “metal thing” as her farther had it for years and was always going to do something with it. I said I didn't know as yet as it was so unusual but I would put it to use when something worthy came up.
  14. 1962/63 and I still have one of my two "train sets" from that era.
  15. I think it was built like that I remember having something similar as a kit in the 60's, puled some strange grey coaches with domes on top. I also has a yellow and blue deltic lookaline (triang transcontinental) that pulled blue versions of the strange coaches. I think that may be in the loft!