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About JimRead

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  • Gender Male
  • Name Jim Read
  • Location Chesterfield
  • Interests 0 gauge micro layouts

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  1. Chetwynd Aston

    Hello Chris, I would like to try to help with your warping problem, the first layout I ever made did this. The second one I made in 1982 is still in use. I use this method of construction with 5mm plywood; It doesn't matter how small the board is, if it's not diagonally braced it will warp. Once done you will not be able to twist a board anymore than a millimetre or so. It's the lightest, strongest and most lasting construction. As used by the Romans to make a bridge across the Danube. I do not seal my boards just paint the tops, sealing them is a recipe for rot. They are in a room at the back of the garage and stand up to -18C to +30C. Apologies for being so adamant about this but I know of so many failures and often after a couple of years work. Cheers - Jim
  2. Pen y Bryn

    Hello Phil, Yes I do that as well using Unsharp Mask at 100% and about 0.5to 1.5 Pixel radius much more tends to bring in artificial highlights. Sometimes I use the Lasso tool and Feather to just sharpen a certain area, if for instance I want to guide the viewers eye to part of an image without them realising it coupled with the use of Curves within the selection. Cheers - Jim
  3. Pen y Bryn

    Hello Phil, Sorry I forgot to say it's with Combine ZP. Cheers - Jim
  4. Pen y Bryn

    Hello Phil, I had a go at the long view you suggested and this is the result; I made 4 exposures with the lens set at 14mm and f11, I use a two step procedure; 1/. 'Align and Balance used Frames' 2/. 'Do stack' I could have made 5 exposures and got the wood centre right in focus. The nearest rail is 5" away from the sensor plane and the van on the far left is 4ft 2ins away. I use a small spirit level in the hot shoe I find that invaluable. Cheers - Jim
  5. Pen y Bryn

    Hello Phil, Thanks for the info about Helicon before I try it may I ask you to look at this on my thread. http://mrlforum.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/3332-the-making-of-maltby-micro-in-412-x-112-ft/&do=findComment&comment=151444 I used CZP to stack the pics Cheers - Jim
  6. The making of Maltby - Micro in 4.1/2 x 1.1/2 ft

    Hello all, This is a trial pic to see if I can fit in a short piece of countryside in behind the water tower and the coaling stage. I can see that I will have to alter the perspective and lower the sky by putting in a bit more. Hello Phil, I used that CombineZP I mentioned for this; using the lens set at 14mm and F3.5, I used manual focus and made 4 images starting with the rail at the front. It does the stack very well what it does though is make the image larger adding bits to the side, going from 4000 x 2248 (16:9) to 4095 x 2303 which I can cut back down using the Canvas Size tool. For a freebie though I think its quite good. Cheers - Jim
  7. Pen y Bryn

    Hello Phil, I can understand you getting a good depth of field with the G12 and those tilt and swivel are a must for MR photography. I'd not heard of Helicon before, CombineZP was written by an Insect photographer and is free, it's a bit quirky though I have to crop the pic once its stacked the pics it adds a bit to the sides as it works through the stack. I use a Panasonic G2 not that much bigger than the G12 and it will stop down to F22 though thinking about it F8 on the G12 probably gives the same DOF giventhe relative sensor sizes. Thanks for the reply interesting topic. Cheers - Jim
  8. Pen y Bryn

    Hello Phil, Brilliant modelling I take my hat off to you! The photographs are superb I can see that you take lots of time and effort with them. I wondered if you used some stacking software like CombineZP? Cheers - Jim
  9. The making of Maltby - Micro in 4.1/2 x 1.1/2 ft

    Hello all, I hadn't done much to the layout until now, I'd run out of photographs to use for low relief buildings using them on my other two micros. I also tried to make a countryside background but failed with that as well and so gave up. A couple of weeks or so ago I thought I could make myself some brick paper and alter it slightly for each building and this is the result. The one on the left will have a platform in front of it and they will all hide the built in controller and point operating switches and levers. So at last I'm on my way to completing it. Cheers - Jim
  10. Hello from the East Midlands

    Hello Phil, Many thanks for the welcome :-) Cheers - Jim
  11. Hello from the East Midlands

    Hello Neil, Many thanks for the welcome :-) Cheers - Jim
  12. Hello Tom, I guess it's like everything else, it depends how you do it, the more complex a thing is the more likely it is to fail. Is thatMurphy's law or someone else can't remember, ah well, such is life etc etc :-) Cheers - Jim
  13. Hello from the East Midlands

    Hello Tom. I started with no skills at all andmade every mistake along the way. I think it's the best way to learn, them as never made a mistake never made anything :-) Cheers - Jim
  14. Hello Matt, Thanks for your nice comment, I must admit though that the wagons you see on the layout, the bodies are made from card and paper with blobs of Seccotine for the bolt heads. The undercarriage bits were from CCW Models now sadly closed, recently having need of some more wagons I've made the W irons, the springs and the brake gear from card and paper as well. From a few inches away they are mistaken for kits and people ask where I got them from. It does mean that I can make a wagon for about £12.00. Anyway onto traversers; once I realised that I would need one and not a sector plate, I Googled for them and was frightened by the complexity of the ones I saw. So I thought well I'll just make one as simply as I can and see what happens, I only need a two position movement so it wasn't going to be that difficult. I used two pieces of wood right across the board making sure that they are at 90 degrees and using blocks at each end as spacers. Another piece of the same wood under the plywood traverser base, line it up clamp it and drill and screw it on. At each end there is a tongue and groove to keep the heights right. I lined up the track on the traverser with the track either side when I laid it and had fortunatly left some wobble in the groove and I was able to use the two cut down and grooved bolts you can see as adjusters. These things never line up perfectly so the bolts being adjustable coupled with the wobble means that I can get exact alignment of the tracks in both directions. The act of pulling or pushing the traverser makes sure that the bolts come to rest against the stops. I used graphite on all the mating parts and after a few hours shunting the traverser moves like ice upon ice. I always think that the simplest solutions are the most effective and so it turned out in this case, I'm pleased to say. Cheers - Jim
  15. Hello Franco, As it happened the tube Eileen brought was just the right size, guess I was very lucky :-) Cheers - Jim